Europeans Blame America for Abandoning Cuba

A couple is having a heated argument at the American Airlines counter in Havana’s Jose Marti airport. The clerk informs them that they will not be allowed on the flight and advises them to go to the US embassy. I step in and tell them not to go to the embassy. After I check in, I strike up a conversation with the couple. They are a married couple, with the husband from Texas and the wife from New Zealand. They had been vacationing in Cuba and were planning to attend a family reunion in Austin.

The wife had been traveling on an ESTA, which is a US electronic visa waiver that allows easy access to the US for citizens of 40 countries, including Europeans, Japanese, South Koreans, Australians, and New Zealanders. I ask them if they were aware that their ESTA would be revoked if they visited Cuba. They shake their heads, indicating that they were not aware of this rule.

While many Caribbean countries have seen an increase in tourist numbers compared to pre-pandemic figures, Cuba has experienced a decline. According to Tourism Analytics, based in Aruba, the number of Germans, Brits, Italians, and French visiting Cuba has dropped between 62 and 69 percent compared to the same period before the pandemic.

This decline can be attributed partly to negative headlines about protests against the Communist regime in Cuba, fueled by shortages of food and gasoline. However, tour operators and small business owners also point to the impact of the “ESTA issue.”

Fiona Wilson, who runs Casa Los Mangos, a guest house in Cuba’s south, explains that her core business used to be Europeans, Australians, and some New Zealanders. Now, it mainly consists of US citizens. She believes that the ESTA issue is preventing people from supporting the Cuban people and is devastating for small businesses like hers.

The problem with ESTAs and Cuba began on January 12, 2021, when then-president Donald Trump added Cuba to the US State Department’s list of state sponsors of terror (SSOT). According to the State Department, ESTAs cannot be used to visit the US if the traveler has been to one of the countries on the SSOT list, such as Iran and North Korea.

Initially, this rule was not enforced and seemed to be part of Trump’s efforts to undo the detente established by Barack Obama in 2016. However, people started being turned away from the airport. The State Department claims that Cuba’s hosting of members of Colombia’s ELN guerrilla group is the reason for the designation, but many in Havana believe it is part of the US’s long-standing campaign to oust Cuba’s communist regime.

Ironically, US citizens can freely travel to Cuba. Flights from Miami to major Cuban cities are available daily, with the crossing to Havana taking just 44 minutes and often costing less than $100.

Sir George Hollingbery, Britain’s ambassador to Cuba, describes Cuba’s place on the SSOT list as “desperately unfair.” However, he is pleased that visitors are coming from the US and witnessing the impact of the SSOT designation on the Cuban people, as it makes it harder for tourists to visit.

The Cuban economy is in a dire state, and the lack of tourists is exacerbating the situation. Cubans who rely on low government wages face real hunger, with shortages of essential items like eggs, coffee, pork, rice, and beans. However, tourists staying in private guest houses or with the growing population of Cubans with money are eating better than ever, thanks to small importers being allowed to operate.

The decline in visitor numbers is transforming Havana. Local businesses like Bleco, a bar opened by renowned dancer Lia Rodriguez, are thriving. Rita McNiff, of tour operator Like a Cuban, suggests that it is actually a great time to visit Cuba as popular accommodations are readily available, and the attention is focused on tourists.

Tour operators emphasize that Washington is not banning visitors from visiting Cuba and then the US. As long as visitors have a US visa, they can travel to Cuba without any issues. Sir George echoes this sentiment and encourages travelers to plan ahead, obtain a full visa, and visit Cuba, describing it as an amazing place unlike anywhere else.

The couple at the airport decides to take a more controversial approach. They book a flight to Mexico City and another separate flight to Texas, not declaring their visit to Cuba. While this may break US immigration laws, the husband believes it is worth the risk to avoid upsetting his grandmother.

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